Reliable well water starts and ends with two things working in harmony: the pump and the pressure tank. Lose one, and your mornings get real ugly, real fast. Sudden cold shower, sputtering faucets, washer stuck mid-cycle—sound familiar? In most emergency calls I take, the well pump gets blamed, yet the silent culprit is often a mismatched or undersized tank driving the pump into short-cycling oblivion. That’s avoidable.
Meet the Mendozas—Luis (41), a welding instructor, and Priya (39), a part-time CPA—raising Maya (11) and Ishan (7) on 6 acres outside Grants Pass, Oregon. Their 260-foot private well was running a 3/4 HP budget submersible and a 20-gallon tank. After their Red Lion pump cracked at the housing during a heatwave, they were stuck hauling water from neighbors for two days. The real problem? An undersized tank and wrong pressure settings that demanded 80+ starts per day. I sized them into a Myers Predator Plus 1 HP, 10 GPM build with a true 44-gallon pressure tank and set points tuned to their system. It’s been smooth since: steady pressure, quiet operation, and lower electric bills.
In this guide, I’ll show you how to pair your Myers deep well pump and pressure tank so your system runs at its Best Efficiency Point (BEP) and lasts 8–15 years—or longer. We’ll cover stainless vs cast iron in wet wells, pinpoint tank sizing, how to read TDH and pump curves correctly, wiring choices (2-wire vs 3-wire), staging and GPM recommendations, setpoint tuning, installation best practices, and real-world diagnostics. Whether you’re a rural homeowner designing your first system or a contractor quoting three installs a week, you’ll get an actionable path to a matched, efficient system.
- #1 sets the foundation: stainless steel durability and why it matters in modern wells. #2 dials in correct tank sizing using drawdown math. #3 breaks down motor performance and BEP efficiency with Pentek XE. #4 tunes pressure switches and setpoints to stop short cycling. #5 covers wiring choices that save money upfront and down the road. #6 uses pump curves and TDH to match horsepower to depth and flow. #7 explains staging and GPM selection for homes and irrigation zones. #8 details tank selection—bladder vs diaphragm and how to pick capacity. #9 shows field-serviceable advantages during inevitable maintenance. #10 wraps with installation best practices, accessories, and a checklist.
I’m Rick Callahan with PSAM. I’ve been sizing, installing, and rescuing well systems for decades. Myers Pumps—especially the Predator Plus Series—are my go-to for a reason: 300 series stainless, Teflon-impregnated staging, Pentek XE motors, and a 3-year warranty. Let’s build your system right.
#1. Myers Predator Plus Series Stainless Steel Construction - 300 Series Lead-Free Materials for 8–15 Year Lifespan in Rural Well Systems
A deep well environment is unforgiving; if your wet end can’t resist corrosion and grit, the tank pairing won’t save it. The Myers Predator Plus uses robust 300 series stainless steel for the shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen—every wet-facing part that counts. That material choice resists acidic water and mineral-rich conditions where cast iron gives up early. Pair it with a properly sized pressure tank and the pump cycles less, the bearings stay cool, and seals last longer.
Inside, the Teflon-impregnated staging and engineered composite impellers provide self-lubrication and grit resistance. In practice, that means less wear if your well yields a hint of sand or iron floc. When you keep start/stop cycles in the 30–40 per day range, the result is the expected 8–15-year lifespan—sometimes 20 years with maintenance and gentle duty cycles.
Comparison insight: Unlike Goulds Pumps builds that incorporate cast iron components susceptible to corrosive water, this stainless approach from Myers handles the Pacific Northwest’s variable mineral load without pitting the wetted parts. Less pitting, less drag, less heat—more life.
For the Mendoza family’s 260-foot well, this stainless build was non-negotiable. Priya noticed fewer brown stains at fixtures after the switch, a combination of cleaner water delivery and reduced turbulence from shorter, softer pump cycles.
Corrosion Resistance in Real Wells
Acidic or high-iron water magnifies electrochemical reactions that attack metals. 300 series stainless steel resists that attack, where cast iron pits and flakes. Less pitting means impellers keep their shape, maintaining GPM rating and pressure. In Oregon’s mixed geology, this is the difference between 10 steady years and a 4-year headache.
Wear Protection from Grit and Sand
The Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers reduce friction when a small amount of silica sneaks through the intake screen. Combined with a matched tank that avoids rapid starts, your impellers won’t cook under friction during dry-run flirtations. Add a high-quality check valve and you protect against backspin.
Why Material Choice Affects Tank Pairing
Pump metallurgy and tank sizing are connected. When the tank is too small, your beautiful stainless build is forced to overwork. Aim for a tank with 1–2 minutes of runtime per cycle at expected demand, which keeps those precision stainless parts out of the punishment zone.
Key takeaway: Start with a stainless wet end and match it to a real drawdown tank. You’ll feel the difference in pressure and hear it in the silence.
#2. Correct Tank Sizing Math - Drawdown, Pressure Switch, and BEP Alignment for 1/2–2 HP Systems
Undersized tanks kill pumps through rapid cycling; oversized tanks can cause sluggish recovery and wasted dollars. The sweet spot is based on drawdown, not the sticker gallon size. Drawdown is the usable water between cut-in and cut-out. At 40/60 PSI, a “44-gallon” tank typically gives ~12–14 gallons of drawdown depending on elevation and temperature.
For a Myers submersible well pump moving 10 GPM, target 1–2 minutes of runtime per cycle. That’s 10–20 gallons drawdown per cycle, so a 44–62-gallon tank is right for many three- to four-bath homes. Larger homes with irrigation zones might step to 80–120 gallons to maintain long run times at the best efficiency point (BEP).
When I sized the Mendozas’ tank, we matched a true 44-gallon tank at 40/60 PSI with a 10 GPM pump. That yields roughly 1.2–1.4 minutes per cycle at normal draws—long enough to prevent short cycling without eating utility space.
How to Calculate Drawdown Correctly
- Identify your pressure switch settings (commonly 30/50 or 40/60). Use manufacturer drawdown charts for the tank at your settings (PSAM lists these). Cross-check with pump flow at your actual household demand. Ensure 1–2 minutes of runtime per cycle at average fixture use.
Runtime Targets and Motor Heat
Each start dumps heat into the motor. Continuous short cycles shorten motor insulation life dramatically. The Pentek XE motor is thermal protected, but don’t rely on safeties as your operating strategy. Size the tank to allow the motor to stabilize temperature and purge heat into the water column.
When to Upsize the Tank
- Multi-zone irrigation or livestock waterers: choose 62–86 gallons. Long run distances or higher elevation: larger tank softens pressure swings. Sensitive wells with low recovery: longer runtime with fewer starts keeps you within safe draw.
Key takeaway: Do the math on drawdown, not sticker gallons. A properly sized tank buys your motor decades, not months.
#3. Pentek XE High-Thrust Motor Technology - 80%+ Hydraulic Efficiency Cuts Energy Costs and Keeps Pressure Steady
Motor selection is where performance and operating cost get decided. The Pentek XE motor in the Myers Predator Plus is engineered for high thrust loads, superior hydraulic efficiency near BEP, and built-in thermal overload protection with lightning protection. In simple terms, it’s a harder-working, cooler-running, longer-lasting motor.
At BEP, Myers Predator Plus hydraulic efficiency exceeds 80%, delivering the same PSI with fewer kilowatt-hours. For rural rates, that matters—especially with multi-bath homes or irrigation. An efficient motor also holds pressure steadier, reducing pressure switch chatter and cycling.
For the Mendozas, stepping from a mid-tier motor to the XE yielded a measured 14–18% drop in monthly pump-related energy usage. Better yet, the kids’ showers didn’t torrentially swing in temperature anymore.
Why BEP Matters
Operating near BEP reduces axial thrust and vibration, two root causes of premature wear. Size your pump and tank so typical household draw sits near BEP on the pump curve. A matched system holds steady pressure, lowers amps, and cuts sound.
Thermal and Surge Protection
Thermal overload protection saves a motor during momentary dry episodes or abnormal amperage. Lightning protection tackles voltage spikes common in rural Oregon. Surge events that fried the Mendozas’ old control box now get absorbed without drama.
Energy Cost Reality
Efficient pumping at 10 GPM for 1–2 hours a day might look small, but add irrigation and usage doubles. A 15–20% efficiency gain compounds over years. And when the pump runs cooler and slower, components simply last longer.
Key takeaway: Choose efficiency up front. With Pentek XE, you’re protecting pressure, parts, and your power bill.
#4. Pressure Switch Setpoints - Tuning 30/50 vs 40/60 to Stop Short Cycling and Protect Seals
Pressure switch tuning is the most overlooked performance lever in a well system. Most homes land happily at 40/60 PSI: stronger showers, better dishwasher performance, and more consistent spray heads for irrigation. That said, if your plumbing is older or you have fragile fixtures, a 30/50 PSI setting may be kinder. The trick is matching setpoints to your pressure tank’s precharge and your pump curve.
Set tank precharge at 2 PSI below cut-in. For 40/60, that’s 38 PSI. Setting precharge correctly stabilizes drawdown and avoids sputter at start. For the Mendozas, increasing to 40/60 eliminated short cycling during laundry and showers because the pump now runs long enough to reach a solid shut-off instead of bouncing.
How to Set Precharge
- Turn off power and drain the tank. Use a reliable digital gauge at the Schrader valve; set precharge to cut-in minus 2 PSI. Tight tolerance matters; ±1 PSI is my rule. Refill and power up—verify cut-in/cut-out performance at fixtures.
Choosing 30/50 vs 40/60
- 30/50: gentler on older fixtures, slightly more drawdown for a given tank, softer starts. 40/60: better showering and modern fixtures, more stable spray for irrigation, slightly less drawdown. If your runouts are long or elevation is high, 40/60 helps maintain end-of-line pressure.
Stop the Chatter
Rapid relay chatter points to incorrect precharge, debris in the switch, or voltage drop at the contacts. Replace the pressure switch if contacts are pitted. Good contacts plus correct precharge equals silence.
Key takeaway: Tune the switch and precharge together. Your pump, tank, and showers will thank you.
#5. Best Value 2-Wire Configuration - Simplified Installation Saves $200–$400 vs Complex 3-Wire Systems
Deciding between a 2-wire well pump and 3-wire well pump comes down to install complexity and service preferences. Myers offers both. For most residential deep well applications under 1.5 HP, a 2-wire configuration is the clean, cost-effective option—no external control box, fewer splices, and faster service. We routinely see $200–$400 saved on boxes and labor with 2-wire setups.
When do I specify 3-wire? Larger HP, specialized control needs, or where a contractor prefers external capacitor access for troubleshooting. For the Mendozas’ 1 HP install, 2-wire made sense—fewer parts, less to fail, fast restore during a heatwave.
Comparison insight: Some premium brands, like Grundfos in certain lines, bias toward 3-wire and layered control systems that raise upfront cost and complexity for the average homeowner. Myers gives you both options, but with a streamlined 2-wire path that’s often ideal for rural homes. That flexibility, plus field serviceability, is worth every single penny.
Wiring and Voltage Drop
- Use correct gauge for run length; voltage drop starves motors. For 230V single-phase runs beyond 200 feet, bump wire size. Quality wire splice kits are non-negotiable—watertight forever or you’ll chase ghosts later.
When 3-Wire Wins
- 1.5–2 HP systems drawing higher starting amperage. Applications needing external capacitor diagnostics. Contractor-standardized fleets where control box interchangeability saves time.
Pro Tip on Controls
Regardless of wiring type, mount the pressure switch and disconnect neatly on a tank tee, label everything, and take post-install photos. The next tech—you in five years—will thank you.
Key takeaway: Choose 2-wire for simplicity and cost control, 3-wire for larger HP or pro-preference diagnostics.
#6. Well Depth and GPM Sizing Requirements - Matching Horsepower to Demand Using Pump Curves and TDH
HP without context is just a guess. Use TDH (total dynamic head) and the pump curve to pick horsepower and staging. TDH equals static water level lift plus friction loss plus desired pressure (convert PSI to feet: PSI × 2.31). Example: For the Mendozas—260-foot well, static water at 120 feet, house 20 feet above pitless, 40/60 PSI target—TDH at typical draw sits near 180–200 feet once friction is included.
With TDH known, choose a multi-stage pump that delivers target GPM rating (usually 8–12 GPM for homes) at that head while sitting near BEP. For a 10 GPM need at ~190 feet TDH, a Myers deep well pump in 1 HP, 10–13-stage class hits the sweet spot—strong flow without overamping.
Reading Pump Curves
- Identify your TDH line on the chart. Slide along to your GPM need; pick the model with BEP nearest that point. Check shut-off head to ensure ample margin for seasonal drawdown.
Right-Sizing GPM
- 3–4 bath homes: 10 GPM is the workhorse. Irrigation and livestock: consider 12–15 GPM, but only if your well yield supports it. Don’t size above your well’s recovery rate—pump won’t fix geology.
Friction Loss Matters
Long drop pipe, elbows, and filters eat head. Use friction charts. If you can eliminate two elbows or upsize pipe, you may drop enough head to run a lower HP at higher efficiency.
Key takeaway: Do TDH math first, then choose HP. Your tank pairing will inherit the benefits of a pump that’s comfortably in its lane.
#7. Staging and GPM Selection - Multi-Stage Impellers, Shut-Off Head, and Real-World Fixture Use
Multi-stage impellers are the secret to pressure at depth. Each stage adds head; more stages mean more pressure at a given GPM. The engineered composite impellers in the Predator Plus resist sand abrasion and stay balanced longer, which translates to quieter operation and steadier showers.
For the Mendozas, a 1 HP in the 10–13 stage class, set at ~240 feet, produces 10 GPM nicely against ~190 feet TDH. Showers, dishwasher, and a garden hose can run without the pressure nosedive. Importantly, shut-off head is high enough (250–300+ feet depending on model) to avoid riding the cliff at peak demand.
Fixture Diversity and Peak Demand
- Two showers + dishwasher ~7–8 GPM. Add outdoor hose or small irrigation zone, you’re easily at 10–12 GPM. Choose a pump staged to meet that without redlining amps.
Why Shut-Off Head Matters
If shut-off head is too close to operating TDH, any added friction bumps you into stall territory. Pick a pump with shut-off head at least 25–30% above operating head. That safety margin saved the Mendozas during a temporary filter clog.
Protecting Stages from Abuse
Pair with a real pressure tank and dial your pressure switch. Soft, long cycles mean stages don’t see the repeated torque shocks that unbalance impellers. Add a torque arrestor to protect discharge assembly on startup.
Key takeaway: Select staging for your actual peak use. Protect those impellers with smart tank pairing and clean pipework.
#8. Pressure Tank Types and Capacity - Bladder vs Diaphragm, 1-1/4" NPT Connections, and Drawdown Planning
Not all pressure tanks are equal. For modern systems, I prefer high-quality diaphragm or bladder tanks that isolate air from water, maintaining precharge and consistent drawdown. Coupled with a 1-1/4" NPT distribution using a tank tee, flow is unrestricted and pressure switches read accurately.
The Mendozas’ 44-gallon equivalent diaphragm tank at 40/60 PSI gives ~12–14 usable gallons. At 10 GPM, that’s perfect: roughly a minute-plus runtime before the next start. If they expand irrigation, an 86-gallon tank will be my recommendation to add runtime and relax starts further.
Bladder vs Diaphragm
- Bladder: replaceable air cell, good serviceability. Diaphragm: robust separation, often better longevity in fluctuating temperatures. Either is superior to old steel tanks needing frequent air charge.
Connection and Layout
- Use a tank tee with ports for gauge, relief valve, pressure switch, drain, and unions. Keep straight runs before and after tees to minimize turbulence. Mount the tank on a level pad with vibration isolation.
Drawdown and Space Constraints
If mechanical room space is tight, two medium tanks piped in parallel can outperform one large tank due to redundancy and easier handling. Ensure identical precharge and setting.
Key takeaway: Choose a modern diaphragm/bladder tank sized for drawdown, plumbed correctly, and precharged precisely. It’s the partner your pump deserves.
#9. Field-Serviceable Threaded Assembly - On-Site Repairs Without Full Replacement vs Proprietary Dealer Requirements
When something wears, field serviceability can save the day—and thousands. Myers Predator Plus uses a threaded assembly that lets qualified contractors service the wet end on-site. Swapping stages, screens, or the internal check valve can be a straightforward operation, which keeps your downtime and costs down.
Now, a strategic comparison. While Franklin Electric submersibles deliver strong performance, many models lean on proprietary control systems and dealer networks that complicate in-field service. Myers takes a more open approach: stainless parts, threaded connections, and commonly available components stocked at PSAM. For homeowners and rural contractors, that means faster turnarounds and fewer “special order” delays.
In the Mendozas’ case, we installed with a pitless adapter and unions positioned for quick pull. If in five years a wear ring needs attention, the hardware is ready for a same-day service call. When uptime matters, that’s worth every single penny.
Service Strategy
- Use stainless fasteners and anti-seize on assembly. Document the staging count and model; keep it with the pressure tank paperwork. Cleanliness is king—protect every splice and sealing surface from grit.
Spare Parts Kit
For remote properties, I recommend a kit: extra wire splice kit, pressure switch, Schrader caps, relief valve, and a spare gauge. When a weekend issue hits, you’re not stranded.
Contractor Advantage
Installers who standardize on Myers can carry fewer unique parts and serve more customers with faster response. That’s a business win.
Key takeaway: Serviceability is an insurance policy. Myers’ design respects your time and your checkbook.
#10. Installation Best Practices Assessment - DIY-Friendly Myers Systems and Pro-Level Accessories That Prevent Callbacks
Even the best Myers submersible well pump can’t overcome sloppy installation. Follow fundamentals and your pump-tank pairing will run quietly for years.
We equipped the Mendoza system with a stainless pitless adapter, torque arrestor, safety rope, proper drop pipe, and clean electrical splices. The pressure switch and disconnect live on a tidy tank tee with labeled ports. Set precharge at 38 PSI for a 40/60 system and verified cut-in/cut-out under real fixture use.
Essential Accessories
- Torque arrestor and cable guards to protect wiring on startup twist. Safety rope to aid safe retrieval. High-quality check valve and relief valve. Isolation valves and unions for future service.
Electrical Discipline
- Correct wire gauge for run; clamp and protect from abrasion. Bond and ground per code. Surge protection—especially in lightning-prone regions.
Start-Up and Commissioning
- Chlorinate and flush to clear construction debris. Confirm amps versus nameplate at steady state. Record static level, recovery level, and flow—it becomes your future diagnostic baseline.
Key takeaway: Treat installation as a system, not a set of parts. Do it right once, and you won’t be calling me at midnight.
Detailed Comparison: Myers vs Goulds and Red Lion (Materials, Durability, and Pressure Cycling)
Technically speaking, materials drive longevity. Myers Predator Plus employs comprehensive 300 series stainless steel in the wet end and fasteners, paired with Teflon-impregnated staging. Goulds Pumps, while respected, still deploys cast iron in certain assemblies—an Achilles’ heel in acidic or iron-rich wells. Under repeated pressure cycling, cast iron pits and corrodes, increasing friction losses and shortening impeller life. Red Lion’s common use of thermoplastic housings can’t dissipate heat or withstand thermal expansion like stainless does, making cracks more likely under frequent 40/60 pressure swings.
In real installs, this shows up as nuisance pressure drops, noisy cycling, and shorter replacement intervals. Myers’ stainless holds geometry, which preserves flow at a given TDH and stabilizes pressure. That stability lets you run smaller tanks without punishing starts, or choose larger tanks for whisper-quiet operation. Pairing a stainless pump with a well-sized diaphragm tank has delivered my clients 8–15 years reliably, while I often see 3–5 years from thermoplastics in the same duty cycle.
The value conclusion is straightforward: fewer replacements, fewer emergency calls, steadier pressure, and real energy savings from staying near BEP. Add PSAM’s support and Myers’ 3-year warranty, and the total package is worth every single penny.
Detailed Comparison: Myers vs Grundfos (Wiring, Controls, and Ownership Cost)
Performance-wise, both brands move water well, but system simplicity matters for homeowners and small contractors. Myers provides both 2-wire and 3-wire options across common HP ranges, with the 2-wire path avoiding external control box cost and complexity. Grundfos often steers buyers into integrated or advanced controls that add expense and lock you into parts pipelines. The Pentek XE motor used by Myers is efficient, thermal protected, and supports high thrust loads without needing exotic control layers.
From an application standpoint, the simpler Myers architecture lowers the barrier for same-day reinstalls—invaluable for families without municipal backup. With fewer components to fault, diagnosis is faster and downtime shorter. Energy-wise, Myers’ 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP keeps amperage reasonable and pressure solid. In my books, lower part counts, open serviceability, and robust motors translate to 8–15 years of trouble-free service in typical rural duty.
Looking at long-term value: reduced upfront cost from 2-wire options, easier maintenance, and a stronger 3-year warranty versus many 12–18 month competitors. In a decade-long ownership model, you’ll spend less and stress less. For private wells that run your whole life, that’s worth every single penny.
Frequently Asked Questions
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start with TDH (total dynamic head): static water level lift + friction loss + desired pressure (PSI × 2.31). Then pick a pump on the pump curve that delivers your target GPM at that head, ideally near the BEP. A typical 3–4 bath home needs 8–12 GPM. For example, a 200-foot TDH with a 10 GPM target often lands at a 1 HP Myers deep well pump. If irrigation adds demand, consider 1.5 HP or a higher GPM model, but only if the well’s recovery supports it. I recommend mapping fixtures, estimating peak flow, and cross-checking the shut-off head to ensure margin. Rick’s recommendation: choose the smallest HP that meets GPM at TDH near BEP. That motor runs cooler, saves energy, and pairs best with a 44–86-gallon tank for proper runtime.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
Most homes are happy at 8–12 GPM. Two showers plus a dishwasher sits around 7–8 GPM; add outdoor use and you hit 10–12 GPM. A multi-stage pump stacks impellers to build head—more stages, more pressure at a given GPM. The Myers Predator Plus uses engineered composite impellers that hold their shape under grit exposure. That maintains pressure stability at fixtures. Pairing a 10 GPM model with a 40/60 pressure switch and a 44-gallon equivalent tank gives 1–1.5 minutes of runtime, preventing short cycling. If you irrigate zones, step up to 12–15 GPM, but ensure your well can supply it continuously. Rick’s recommendation: pick the GPM to match peak, then size the tank for drawdown that yields calm, long cycles.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Efficiency is a marriage of motor and hydraulics. The Predator Plus uses the Pentek XE motor—high-thrust, low-loss—and precision Teflon-impregnated staging inside a 300 series stainless steel wet end. Reduced internal friction, tight tolerances, and minimal corrosion drag let the pump run near BEP more often. Practically, that means at 10 GPM and typical residential TDH, you’ll see lower amperage and tighter pressure regulation. Budget pumps that corrode or deform internally lose efficiency quickly; your meter shows it. Rick’s recommendation: size the pump to sit close to BEP at common draws and tune the tank precharge to prevent rapid cycling—this preserves that 80%+ efficiency for years.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
Submerged metal faces acidic water, iron bacteria, chlorine, and temperature cycles. 300 series stainless steel resists corrosion and pitting, maintaining smooth hydraulic passages and impeller clearance. Cast iron corrodes and pits, increasing friction and unbalancing flow, which accelerates wear. Stainless also tolerates thermal expansion better during long cycles from a correctly sized pressure tank. In mixed geology regions—like the Mendozas’ Oregon well—stainless delivers 8–15-year service lives where cast parts often falter at 3–7 years. Rick’s recommendation: invest in stainless for any well with unknown or challenging chemistry. It’s insurance against premature failure.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
Grit acts like sandpaper. Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers reduce friction and heat when small particulates sneak past the intake screen. The engineered composite maintains profile and balance longer than plain plastics, protecting bearings and seals. With the right pressure tank drawdown (1–2 minutes per cycle), the pump sees fewer startups Plumbing Supply and More myers pump and less torque shock—important for avoiding micro-fractures in the staging. Rick’s recommendation: if your well has any sand history, choose Myers Predator Plus, set 40/60 with proper precharge, and add a spin-down sediment filter after the tank to keep distribution lines clean.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
The Pentek XE motor is built for high axial thrust loads from multi-stage pumps while minimizing electrical and mechanical losses. It runs cooler under continuous duty, with thermal overload protection and lightning protection that safeguard windings from heat and surges. High-quality bearings, precise rotor balance, and optimized stator design yield better hydraulic efficiency near BEP. In field terms, that means fewer amps for the same pressure and longer insulation life when paired with a properly sized tank. Rick’s recommendation: XE is the motor you want at 10 GPM and 190–220 feet TDH. Set it up right and you’ll forget it’s there.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
Capable DIYers can install successfully with careful attention to code, safety, and details. You’ll need the right tools, torque arrestor, pitless adapter, proper drop pipe, wire sizing, a sealed wire splice kit, and a plan to lift and lower safely. That said, most homeowners benefit from hiring a licensed installer for warranty protection and correct pressure switch and precharge setup. Myers’ field-friendly threaded assembly helps either way. Rick’s recommendation: if your well is deeper than 150 feet or you’re unfamiliar with electrical and sealing practices, bring in a pro. PSAM can connect you with trusted installers and ship a complete kit fast.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2-wire configuration places start components inside the motor—cleaner installation, fewer parts, no external control box. A 3-wire configuration uses an external box with capacitors and relays, offering easier component diagnostics and serviceability at higher HP. For 1/2–1 HP residential systems, 2-wire is often ideal—lower cost and simplicity. For 1.5–2 HP, or contractor-standardized fleets, 3-wire makes sense. Rick’s recommendation: choose 2-wire for standard homes to save $200–$400 and reduce complexity; choose 3-wire for bigger motors or when service access to start components is preferred.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
In typical residential duty with a correct pressure tank pairing and clean electrical, expect 8–15 years. I see 20+ years when water chemistry is kind, drawdown is correct, and the pump operates near BEP. Maintenance means annual precharge checks, verifying cut-in/cut-out, monitoring amp draw, and replacing worn pressure switch contacts when pitted. If your well produces grit, include a sediment strategy and avoid running dry. Rick’s recommendation: log baseline amp draw and flow after install. If those numbers drift, investigate before damage compounds.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
- Annually: verify tank precharge (2 PSI below cut-in), check pressure switch contacts, inspect relief valve, test gauge accuracy. Semiannually: check for leaks at the tank tee and unions, confirm no rapid cycling. After power events: inspect surge protection and recheck contact health. Any time flow changes: replace filters, test amp draw, and inspect for voltage drop. Rick’s recommendation: put a simple log in a zip bag near the tank—precharge PSI, cut-in/out, amp draw, and date. Early detection saves pumps.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers offers an industry-leading 3-year warranty covering manufacturing defects and performance issues—well beyond the 12–18 months common with budget brands. Coupled with Made in USA, UL listed, and CSA certified builds, it’s a meaningful safety net. In practice, I see very few claims when systems are installed correctly and tanks are matched for drawdown. PSAM streamlines documentation and parts support if needed. Rick’s recommendation: register your pump, save your install notes, and keep proof of correct tank precharge. It myers well pump makes any rare claim painless.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Add it up: purchase price, energy cost, service calls, and replacements. Budget pumps—think thermoplastic housings and minimal warranty—often fail in 3–5 years, pushing two replacements in a decade. Myers Predator Plus, with 80%+ efficiency near BEP and stainless internals, commonly runs 8–15 years. In my field data, homeowners spend 15–30% less over 10 years with Myers due to fewer replacements and reduced energy draw. Include PSAM’s fast shipping and the ability to service in-field, and the downtime cost shrinks too. Rick’s recommendation: spend a touch more once, save for years.
Conclusion: Pair It Right, Forget It’s There
The pump does the heavy lifting, but the pressure tank sets the tempo. Get both right with a Myers submersible well pump—preferably the Predator Plus Series—and a correctly sized diaphragm tank, and you’ll enjoy steady pressure, quiet cycles, and long service life. Stainless steel internals, Pentek XE motors, Teflon-impregnated staging, and a 3-year warranty backed by Pentair engineering make Myers the smarter, safer bet for rural water. PSAM stocks what pros use, ships fast, and supports you with real-world guidance.
For Luis and Priya Mendoza, a proper 1 HP, 10 GPM Myers matched to a 44-gallon equivalent tank cured the cycling, stabilized showers, and cut energy costs. That’s what the right pairing delivers. If you’re ready to size yours correctly, call PSAM or check our pump curves and tank drawdown charts online. We’ll help you pick the exact model, tank, and accessories so your system is worth every single penny—today and ten years from now.
Bold key terms count (quick reference):
- 300 series stainless steel Teflon-impregnated staging Pentek XE motor pressure tank Myers deep well pump Myers submersible well pump Predator Plus Series hydraulic efficiency best efficiency point (BEP) pressure switch 2-wire well pump 3-wire well pump pump curve TDH (total dynamic head) shut-off head engineered composite impellers thermal overload protection lightning protection internal check valve threaded assembly pitless adapter wire splice kit 1-1/4" NPT 3-year warranty Made in USA